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Community Corner

Touring McLaughlin Vineyards

An amateur's tentative step onto the Connecticut Wine Trail includes a stop at the Sandy Hook vineyard.

Wine can be a little intimidating. Although I've tried to identify a few labels I can count on, I get flustered when confronted with a large display.

Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc? Merlot or Cabernet? Prosecco or Champagne?

Even though I've toured and tasted my way through California, Italy and even parts of Hungary (yes, they make wine there), I still feel like an amateur.

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But that's OK, according to Deedee Morlock, who manages Sandy Hook's McLaughlin Vineyards.

"The people that work here are trained to offer descriptions of the wine, the grapes and a history of the vineyard during the tasting," said Morlock.

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If you are new to wine tasting, employees can help you notice the subtle flavors and how the wines are paired with food, Morlock explained. Those with more experience will enjoy not only the flavors of the wines but learning about which grape varieties grow well in Connecticut, particularly on this family vineyard nestled in a rural part of Sandy Hook.

The Vineyard

Maneuvering Alberts Hill Road, one can easily miss the understated entrance to McLaughlin Vineyards. A gravel driveway leads through the woods, where a small sign welcomes visitors to this wine-lover's haven. The humble entrance gives way to a huge expanse of rolling hills as the driveway winds around rows of neatly trained grapevines, eventually ending at the main building.

More than 60 years ago, Charles McLaughlin purchased three farms for his family. The property has varied in acreage over the years but is still a large parcel consisting of 160 acres, 50 of which front the Housatonic River.

In 1979, McLaughlin's son, Bruce, planted the first vineyard. Since then, the winery has expanded to produce 2500 cases annually from its 15 acres of vineyards and is part of the Connecticut Wine Trail, a network of wineries throughout the state.

Owner Bruce McLaughlin lives on the property and runs the growing and production parts of the business, while Morlock manages the store, handles the tastings and organizes events.

The Wine

With six different varieties of wines, the winery offers tasting daily with no reservations needed. For $7, visitors can taste all six wines and leave with a McLaughlin wine glass.

Currently available are three whites, including the Chardonnay, Vista Muse and Coyote; one rosé, known as Red Fox; and two reds, including Vista Reposa and the 2008 Merlot.

Of the whites, my favorite and the most popular was the blue-bottled Coyote. By far the most unique in flavor, the bouquet was distinctly apple, even before I heard the description. This bold white could stand up to a spicy Thai dish, Morlock suggested.

The Red Fox Rosé was subtle and light, with the label encouraging men that it's alright to "think pink".

Of the reds, the most popular is Vista Reposa, a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes. But I preferred the bolder 2008 Merlot, which had a deep plum flavor.

The vineyard uses stainless steel as well as traditional oak barrels to ferment its grapes. And although some labels have moved to screw-on tops, Morlock says the vineyard won't be transitioning to screw caps any time soon.

"No, that won't happen. The pop of a cork – it just feels better than twisting off a cap," she said.

The Store

Adjacent to the tasting room is McLaughlin's store. Morlock stocks the shelves with unique items supplied by area artisans.

"I like to keep it as local as possible," she said.

In addition to the vineyard's own maple syrup, eggs and, occasionally, honey, the shop boasts handmade soaps, felt purses, painted glassware, gourmet sauces and locally made snacks. Local chefs can provide picnic lunches or cater events with advanced notice.

But of course, the wine is the star here. And after learning a bit about what makes a good wine, I feel better equipped to choose from those rows of possibilities, knowing that at McLaughlin's, a tasty bottle always begins with the pop of a cork.

McLaughlin Vineyards is open daily for tastings, picnicking and hiking. Special events, such as theater, music and wine classes, are offered on some weekends. See the website for details.

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